Someone didn't read the thread titlerecommendations for what?
I decided to try out the Flexispot E1 (their cheapest) and take the top off my existing desk as there's nowt wrong with it, so it was £130 for just the base.Someone didn't read the thread title
Flexispot have a Valentines deal going on, might be able to get some kind of youtuber/streamer discount code to work too but I don't know of any myself. Still quite pricey though, even with the discounts.
I have an IKEA karlby worktop which is on a maidesite desk frame. Work very well, and you can fit it to your exact dimensions. Not that cheap though.
I've got the same style, kitchen worktop and drawers.
I used to only by old office desks were usually like £20-£30 and real solid, but for my new desk I need something 2700mm long -.- tempted to put it on a up desk too tbh, but can they lift that weight? -.- was going to wall mount monitors too rather than desk mountWill never buy a premade desk again, such a solid setup.
a good solid hardwood top that will last a life time will be around 30-60KG depending on the species of timber and moisture content(you will want kiln dried or less than 20% moisture to avoid warping/twisting later on)thats assuming on 20mm thick x 750mm wide x 2700mm long. most lift around 80-120KG easily the real issue is finding a set of legs that will cover the 2700mm while still staying relatively cheap and stableI used to only by old office desks were usually like £20-£30 and real solid, but for my new desk I need something 2700mm long -.- tempted to put it on a up desk too tbh, but can they lift that weight? -.- was going to wall mount monitors too rather than desk mountcan see that causing issues
I was going to grab some 3000x620x40 oak on eBay, but that might be to “slim” and once you try going over 700 they seem to double in price it feels, as for legs I was going to stick some timber on the walls and rest it on them and possibly have some of them ikea malm draws either side (I think their called) I could make something to support the middle.a good solid hardwood top that will last a life time will be around 30-60KG depending on the species of timber and moisture content(you will want kiln dried or less than 20% moisture to avoid warping/twisting later on)thats assuming on 20mm thick x 750mm wide x 2700mm long. most lift around 80-120KG easily the real issue is finding a set of legs that will cover the 2700mm while still staying relatively cheap and stable
Yeh we have that issue at work with current timber prices finding a good slab over 400mm wide has become incredibly expensive and time consuming the last 3 or 4 years. If you have the tools you would be better off jointing 3 250mm's togeather. With that length I would highly suggest a U channel or groove running down the middle and a metal T bar to help with potential sag over the years and use it to hide cables as an added extra I bolted a metal box section under mine to hide all the cables drill holes along it and route them where needed.I was going to grab some 3000x620x40 oak on eBay, but that might be to “slim” and once you try going over 700 they seem to double in price it feels, as for legs I was going to stick some timber on the walls and rest it on them and possibly have some of them ikea malm draws either side (I think their called) I could make something to support the middle.
I’ve thought about bringing out from the wall a bit, or cutting it down the middle / at some random sections (since they are all like butcher block) and pulling apart and sticking resin between it (need some sort of way to encase it find some cheap melamine or something similar)
I could easily router some 250mm's they cheaper to grab? o.0 i honestlyu dont mind the butcher block style tbh, and defintly want it 40mm odd, the 27's just seem way to thin.Yeh we have that issue at work with current timber prices finding a good slab over 400mm wide has become incredibly expensive and time consuming the last 3 or 4 years. If you have the tools you would be better off jointing 3 250mm's togeather. With that length I would highly suggest a U channel or groove running down the middle and a metal T bar to help with potential sag over the years and use it to hide cables as an added extra I bolted a metal box section under mine to hide all the cables drill holes along it and route them where needed.
Just make sure you use release spray made that mistake a few timesyour going to end up sanding it anyway so a bit of it stuck on later is no big deal just a ball ache to clean up.
much cheaper if you are able to do it your self, the only slab i can find right now 750 wide 40 thick while at home is at 3-4K and its not guaranteed to be single slab they warn in could be jointed anyway if they don't have stock. 3 @250 width still looking at 1200-1500 from a timber yard planed all round. you could go American oak its a little cheaper but it just doesn't look as nice 900-1000I could easily router some 250mm's they cheaper to grab? o.0 i honestlyu dont mind the butcher block style tbh, and defintly want it 40mm odd, the 27's just seem way to thin.
Never heard of the U channel thing, you got any examples? I got the room but not many clamps tbh, I would want it perfectly flat -.- I'd love for a planer/thinknesser
